Czech Beer |
General
Beers are usually referred to by their strength in degrees plato: 10%, 12%, etc. This is a similar system to that of original gravity used in Britain and refers to the sugars in the wort before fermentation. It gives a rough, but not precise, idea of the strength. This varies according to the degree of attenuation, or how many of the sugars have been converted into alcohol. For example, Pilsner Urquell 12% is 4.4% alcohol, whereas Bernard 10% is 4.5%. Most beers are between 10% and 13%, with bottled table beers at 7-9% and a few special beers in the range 14% to 20%.
Draught beer is usually unpasteurised and, unless it the label says otherwise, bottled beer is similarly untreated. As a consequence, bottles often start forming a thin sediment of yeast after little more than a week. Not that this is usually a problem - Czechs don't leave beer lying around the house for very long.
At one time pretty well all the beer was filtered, with the exception of that from U Fleků. A few breweries are now marketing 'kvasnicové pivo' or 'yeast beer' . This is unfiltered and has a sediment. It is mostly found in bottled form, though the Novomestsky Pivovar serves it on draught.
Pre-1989, Czechoslovakia was the only country apart from the UK and Ireland where more than 50% of beer sales were on draught. This was probably connected with the fact that the price of beer was the same in pubs and supermarkets. With a price differential beginning to creep in in favour of the shops, this must be changing. Though people do still come to pubs with jugs to be filled with draught beer to drink at home.
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Beer Styles The Czech system of beer classification is remarkably simple: the colour and the gravity in Plato. So you get 10° dark, 12° pale, 13° amber, etc. I used to think that there were only two styles, pale and dark (I hadn't noticed the amber lagers). Brewed to a couple of strengths, which differed only in their level of alcohol. How totally wrong I was.
I realised my terrible mistake when I stumbled upon some pre-war labels in German. As well as the usual 12°, 13° business they gave the beers names. Names like "Märzen", "Spezial" and "Export". Suddenly it all made sense. They don't have fewer lager styles in the Czech Republic - they have the full set.
Here's a quick guide:
10° pale = Helles Schankbier 12° pale = Helles Lagerbier 13° pale = Spezial 14° pale = Export
10° amber = Vienna Schankbier 12° amber = Vienna Lagerbier 14° amber = Märzen
10° dark = Dunkles Schankbier 12° dark = Dunkles Lagerbier 13° dark = Dunkles Export 14° dark = Dunkles Märzen
Recently, one brewery, Bernard, has begun to brew a wheat beer in the South German style (you can find it in the food hall of the Maj department store on Na Přikopě). Ironically, this type of beer originated in Bohemia before being adopted by the Bavarians.
If you want to be pestered with my theories on the development of lager styles, look here.
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Pale Beers The best-known version is 12% light, made famous by the beers of Plzeń (in German Pilsen) and Ceské Budejovice (Budweis).
Though it has to be remembered that the Czech beer has little connection with what is called pils in the rest of the world. This could more appropriately called Copenhagener, as it derives from the beers brewed by Carlsberg; very pale, thin body with an aromatic, sometimes quite bitter, finish.
Real pilsener is much fuller in colour - almost amber - has a big malty body with honey and fruit tones, finished off with a bitter punch of Saaz hops. A complex and well-balanced beer, where the interplay of malt and hops is of great importance. These characteristics are true, to some extent, of all Czech pale lagers, which have more body and colour than in most countries. They have an aroma all of their own, creamy with hints of yeast and bread.
The 10% beers tend to be rather lighter both in body and colour, but still retain the main characteristics of the 12% beers. The best of them are tasty, satisfying and very moreish. Thankfully, their relatively low alcohol content means that 5 or 6 half litres aren't too dangerous. Outside of the UK, the Czech Republic is the only country to produce sizeable quantities of tasty and original beer of under 4% alcohol. Try the 'light' beers produced in most of the world and you will see that this is not as simple as it may appear. |
Dark BeersDark beers vary between red-brown and black in colour. The taste is mostly malty with some sweetness, though some have dry coffee and liqourice flavours more associated with stouts.
In style, they are closely related to South German dunkles, though without the very distinctive nutty malt flavour which these have. They come in various strengths, but 10% and 11% are the commonest types.
The stronger versions - 13° and 14° - have few equivalents elsewhere, except for the dark Märzen beers of Bavaria. |
Serving MethodTraditional Czech beers pumps seem to use, rather than CO2, an air -pressure system, similar to that found in water pumps in Scotland. Unfortunately, standard top-pressure pumps are appearing, though, judging by the level of carbonation in the beer, they keep the pressure set pretty low.
Filling each glass with patience and care, the barman gets a good thick, tight head which will leave a sucession of rings down the side of the glass as the beer is drunk. Very much the same way as beer is served in the North of England. With the oversized glasses, there's plenty of room for a big head without eating into the full measure of liquid. The philistine habit of turning up the cooler has not spread here yet and the beer comes out at cellar temperature, or 6-10 degrees C. |
BreweriesSince the closure of Braník in 2006, Prague has only one industrial brewery, Staropramen, owned by Inbev. There are an additional six brewpubs: u Bulovky, U Fleků, Klášterní Pivovar, U Medvídků, Novoměstský pivovar and Pivovarský Dům. Beers from the Czech Republic's largest breweries - Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Velké Popovice, Krušovice - are easy enough to find with, logically enough, those of Staropramen, the largest brewery in the Czech Republic predominating.
The standard of beer produced has unfortunately fallen considerably in quality since 1990.With most of the large producers owned by multinationals, this situation is unlikely to improve. Amongst the pale examples, Pilsner Urquell 12% along with Budvar 12% are still decent beers. Bernard 14% and Fleku 13% are particularly fine examples of dark lagers.
For more details about these breweries and the beers that they brew, take the links below.
A list of all the breweries in the Czech Republic
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